Day tripping - Trinidad style

Birding in and around Asa Wright was grand but my insatiable desire to explore left me wanting to see more of the beautiful island nation of Trinidad. So while staying at Asa Wright, I was able to partake in numerous side trips to surrounding bird & wildlife hotspots. These included a sewage lagoon (naturally) where we saw our first Wattled Jacanas and Spectacled Caiman of the trip, along with numerous other interesting species: 2 different tyrants (more on these later), perched White-winged Swallows, Yellow-chinned Spinetails, Southern Lapwing, and the lovely introduced Common Waxbills to name a few.

Wattled Jacana digiscoped with Leica APO Televid scope & C-Lux 2 camera

This was only the quickest of stops though, as our ultimate destination this afternoon was the fabulous "Caroni Swamp", a massive mangrove forest lined with channels that is famous for its huge concentrations of Scarlet Ibis. We saw hundreds of these gorgeous creatures streaming toward their roosts as we floated through the mangroves on a comfortable boat ride (made all the better by the fact that Asa Wright staff had sent along our rum punch and cookies for the ride!)

We enjoyed views of many great wildlife species including more caiman along the channels, and lovely Cook's Tree Boas sleeping in tight balls in the forks of mangrove branches. We were also looking for the many specialty birds that reside in these mangroves and weren't disappointed as we discovered Bicolored Conebills, Straight-billed Woodcreeper, Yellow-breasted Flycatchers, Black-crested Antshrikes, Eared Doves, and the stunning Red-crested Cardinal. I'll have to admit to a bit of luck on the photo below as this was digiscoped from a drifting boat in a decent current. It was the only digiscoped image I got from our 2.5 hour boat ride. We were also treated to views of a rarely seen Mangrove Cuckoo, a nice male Green-throated Mango perched close by for study, and I was able to observe the feeding habits of Large-billed Terns as we were anchored watching the lines of near-fluorescent Scarlet Ibis stream low overhead. My thanks go out to Shawn, our skilled pilot & guide who knew the wildlife and waters of this spot as surely as he knew the back of his hand.

Red-capped Cardinal digiscoped @ Caroni Swamp, Trinidad 28 July 08

The following AM I enjoyed exploring the plains and lowland savannas of Trinidad, beginning with a visit to the Aripo Biological Station. Here I learned about "Buffalipso", a hybrid bovine cross between Indian Water Buffalo, and cattle to produce a very heat tolerant creature. Of course, my main interest lie in the birds found in the open areas where these animals grazed though and I enjoyed much better views of the White-headed Marsh-Tyrant (below) & Pied Water-Tyrants. I saw my first Pinnated Bittern peering out of a wet, grassy slough & Grassland Yellow Finches entertained in the pasture brush alongside Blue-black Grassquits. I observed the antics of a young Savanna Hawk begging for food from a distant adult, while Yellow-hooded & Red-breasted Blackbirds sang and displayed nearby.

White-headed Marsh-Tyrant, male, digiscoped Trinidad, 29 July 2008

Another treat here was getting to see a beautiful male Ruddy-breasted Seedeater sing, and hearing the low pitched distinctive winnowing of a South American Snipe. It was notably different than the Wilson's Snipe we find throughout the US.

male Ruddy-breasted Seedeater digiscoped w/ Leica APO Televid scope

After this we headed west and then south along the coast toward Nariva Swamp. Stopping briefly to enjoy the views of Frigatebird flocks sailing over the palm-lined coast, and to view a singing Striped Cuckoo, as well as perched Gray Hawks & Yellow-headed Caracacaras. We finally reached the mangrove lined swamp where we popped out of the car ever so briefly and were treated to Red-rumped Woodpecker, a male Rufous-tailed Jacamar, more Yellow-breasted Flycatchers, and a Silvered Antbird. A few new birds we hadn't yet encountered on this short 4 day, whirlwind trip! I remembered at least some of what I'd learned the day before, as I recognized the calls of the Bicolored Conebills and Yellow-breasted Flycatchers here. I drew a blank when the Black-crested Antshrike began singing again, but fortunately David our guide quickly reminded me when I inquired. I knew it sounded familiar!

male Rufous-tailed Jacamar digiscoped as it hid in the mangrove thicket, Trinidad

After this we continued on past some Wilson's Plovers playing in the surf and finally reached a wonderful little agricultural community nearby. The roadside wetlands offered some species that had become familiar to us by now and the area was teaming with more Jacanas, Southern Lapwings, Pied Water-Tyrants, and White-headed Marsh Tyrants. However, hidden amongst these more abundant birds were a few specialty species that we'd only see here during our trip. The first to show was the stunningly, understated Azure Gallinule. Having seen the more brightly-colored Purple Gallinule earlier in the day I expected the duller Azure Gallinule to pale by comparison, but the subtle coloration of this bird was magnificent as it contrasted with its bright yellow bill. Once again a field guide depiction, just doesn't begin to compare to the bird in the field!

Pied Water-Tyrant male digiscoped Nariva Swamp area, Trinidad 29 July 08

Further along we'd add two more specialties a pair of Masked Yellowthroats and yet another hummingbird species with a bizarre name, the White-tailed Goldenthroat. In a nearby okra patch groups of Green-rumped Parrotlets fed on seed heads offering nice comparisons between male and females of these diminutive parrots. An additional highlight were continual waves of Fork-tailed Flycatchers streaming over in loose groups first 4, then 5 more... 2 more trailing, and so on. After 4-5 minutes over 200 hundred of these amazing birds would stream overhead very low heading to points unknown to the north. This was a wonderful highlight even if it wasn't a "new" bird for me! ;p

Savanna Hawk (adult) perches in Moriche Palm, Wallerfield, Trinidad 29 July 08

As the day wore on we headed back toward Asa Wright with one more stop to make and chances at a few more fun tropical bird species. This would be my last birds I'd enjoy on this trip as I'd leave for Piarco airport at 0-dark-thirty the following AM.

We wound our way off the main highway and out across the abandoned runways of the old US air station, Wallerfield, to search for the Moriche Palm specialists. Four birds in particular are closely linked to this lovely palm species here in Trinidad: the Red-bellied Macaw, Fork-tailed Palm-Swift, Sulphury Flycatcher, and Moriche Oriole.

Orange-winged Parrot digiscoped Wallerfield, Trinidad 29 July 08

Upon parking the car we could hear the raucous call of large Parrots and I immediately saw the Orange-winged Parrots. These are members of the "Amazon" parrots, large with short squared tails. Then just to our left sitting quietly in the palm were 2 beautiful Red-bellied Macaws that David had likely spotted before the car had even stopped!

Red-bellied Macaw digiscoped w/ Leica APO Televid scope & C-Lux 2 camera

Compare the short, square tail on the Orange-winged Parrot to the long pointed tail of the Macaw above. They were amazing to watch as they deftly worked the large Moriche Palm fruits in one foot and their bill. Their blunt bill was perfectly suited and peeling the thick skin of these fruits. The bird below shows a bit of the red belly for which these birds are named. Sulphury Flycatchers were all over this area and the Palm-Swifts spun overhead the entire time we were there. We walked up and down the road as dusk approached and searched high and low for the last specialty bird here.

Red-bellied Macaw digiscoped at Wallerfield, Trinidad 29 July 2008

We saw many other goodies as we searched. There was another Jacamar here (a female this time) and a Black-tailed Tityra, and a pair of Ruby Topaz Hummingbirds foraging alongside Black-throated Mangos. When David finally called, "I have it here!" I raced over to see the lovely Moriche Oriole, a sleek bird in velvety black with a frosted golden crown. This seemed like a fitting way to end a productive and memorable last day of birding in Trinidad. Never fear though, I've skipped ahead and have at least one more Trini-tale up my sleeve for the gluttons who can't get enough of these ramblings! ;p

Asa Wright beyond the feeders

While the view and comfort from the veranda is a definite highlight, it is really only the tip of the iceberg when considering Asa Wright's 1,000+ acres of habitat and extensive trails that beg to be explored. Even the manicured grounds surrounding the lodge's cabanas where I slept, offered species diversity I wasn't seeing at the feeders. Take for example the female Barred Antshrike (below) sitting on a nest in a cabin-side bush!

female Barred Antshrike digiscoped @ Asa Wright Lodge, July 08

One of the huge advantages of digiscoping is the ability to zoom in from a long distance away. For the image above I was standing >30' away taking the picture through a tiny hole in the foliage of a hedge, so as not to disturb this bird. In this same area Vervain bushes with tiny flowers were planted. This was important because tiny flowers attract tiny hummingbirds, with tiny bills, and every morning I'd see the amazing Tufted Coquettes here zipping from stalk to stalk. There were at least three in the area including a stunning male with unbelievable feathering that resembled a diminutive winged crown. I unfortunately never found him perched and he always alluded me as I attempted to digiscope him on the fly. The female perched in the image below though was still marvelous to view, and she was barely the length of my first two finger joints!

female Tufted Coquette, digiscoped Asa Wright, July 08

Of course, I'd be remiss if I neglected to mention how each day began at Asa Wright lodge. As I lay in bed just before first light I'd hear through my open windows the distinctive tooting of the Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl perched just outside my room. After enjoying this for a while, the calling was replaced by that of the resident White-tailed Trogon, and as light increased he was joined by Rufous-browed Peppershrike, Bare-eyed Thrush, and even Yellow Oriole songs! On most days, I'd be up by Trogon thirty at the latest, but on the morning following a night trip to the beaches of Matura in search of nesting Sea Turtles, I stayed in bed later.... (never fear that story will be told soon as well).

Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl digiscoped through Leica APO Televid

In all there appeared to be at least 3 individual Ferruginous Pygmy-Owls next to the Nature Centre and Lodge. The bird above was found midday by a mixed feeding flock and was being harassed by a group of White-necked Jacobins, Violaceous Euphonias, and Cocoa Thrushes. As we were viewing the mobbing process deep inside a dense bamboo stand, one of the Cocoa Thrushes struck the tiny Owl resulting in the misplaced body feather you see above, and causing it to come out into the open for a brief period to move to a new hiding spot (long enough for me to snap some images though, fortunately.... timing is everything)!

male White-bearded Manakins digiscoped along Asa Wright nature trails July 08

On my first morning I'd barely ventured beyond the shelter of the veranda and was already seeing marvelous new birds along the first couple hundred feet of the nature trails. Bearded Bellbirds chimed overhead and numerous young males were challenging the adults here, Blue-crowned Motmots gave their familiar "booht-booht" calls as they swung their tails back and forth in the shadowed areas, followed by a pair of fabulous Chestnut Woodpeckers that crept up a dead snag at the first intersection. AMAZING... and I'd only just begun my hike!

Golden-headed Manakin male digiscoped along Asa Wright trails July 08

It was at this point that I found a marvelous tree full of fruit and fruit-eating birds including Bay-headed & Turquoise Tanagers, Red-crowned AntTanager, Golden-crowned Warblers, and both White-bearded & Golden-headed Manakins. As it turns out there are multiple lekking areas for both of these species very near this tree. For those who aren't aware, Manakin males do marvelous displays in areas known as leks. On the lek, multiple males of these colorful little birds dance and slide up and down limbs, smack their wings together in mid-air making loud "snap" noises, and do whatever else they can to impress the females nearby. The whole scene is just awesome to see, and Manakins are a favorite group among many birders visiting the American tropics as a result of this fabulous spectacle.

Oilbirds digiscoped in Dunstan Cave, along Asa wright trails July '08

Of course, one of the VERY rare treats found along one particular trail on the Asa Wright grounds leads to the infamous grotto where the amazing nocturnal Oilbirds breed and roost. Asa Wright staff is very protective of these wonderful birds bringing people down at intervals of once only every couple days. They do not linger long and will light the area near one pair for a very brief period and then show another to allow visitors the rare opportunity to see these enormous birds.

They must be doing something right because while we were there the numbers of Oilbirds in the famed grotto were at record high numbers with over 200 birds including chicks. You can't argue with success. I had basically one shot and set up the scope at a safe distance and had every setting ready. I had to shoot at a full 1 second exposure given the limited light, at a very high ISO so the picture is noisy (equivalent to grain in film). None-the-less, I count myself lucky to even see these odd nocturnal frugivores, a photo is just unreal.

Larger than most common gull species you might see at your local park, the Oilbirds take to the forests in search of their favorite fruits every night. Nature Centre staff know which trees are best and regularly disperse seeds near the grotto to insure the future of food plants for these magnificent birds. Of course, nature centre staffers have to remain ever vigilent and keep a close eye on other threats like encroaching aggregate mining just one valley away. I'm certain from everything I saw, the folks at Asa Wright will insure that future generations will be able to still enjoy this ever so rare treat in years to come though!

Veranda birds of Asa Wright Nature Centre

the view from the amazing veranda at Asa Wright Nature Centre

I've heard the name Asa Wright Nature Centre (or center for those in the US) since the day I started birding nearly 25 years ago. Asa Wright NC was established the same year I was born, although I think I'm ahead by a few months at least. Until 2 weeks ago, Asa Wright remained one of many spots on a long and illustrious list of places I had to see before I die! I'm happy to say that I've now moved this locale to my list of places that I've seen and love! The birds, wildlife, lodge, centre, and staff all exceeded my expectations to boot.

tray feeder at Asa Wright NC, Trinidad - digiscoped Leica Televid spotting scope

The grounds and forests around the centre are fabulous and require a fair amount of time to cover effectively, but most 1st time visitors will be more than content to just sit on the veranda and watch the feeders and glass across the scenic valley that stretches out in front of you. For me it was no different, and many of these point blank birds were new for me. Even the "widespread" tropical birds are not species I see often enough that I didn't enjoy these quality views. The fact that it was also time to serve the daily "rum punch" on the veranda, was an added unexpected bonus!

Great Antshrike, male digiscoped with Leica APO Televid scope & C-Lux 2 camera

The diversity of species that visited the tray feeders below the veranda was surprising, even amazing. It seemed that few species could resist the amazing spread of fruits and breads and the group shot above shows a fairly typical mix of species seen during our trip (Banaquits, a male Purple Honeycreeper, and a young Silver-beaked Tanager). The biggest surprise to me though was when the male Great Antshrike came to enjoy the spoils of the feeders as well!

Crested Oropendola digiscoped from Asa Wright NC veranda, Trinidad

Whether your a fan of "feeder watching" or if you prefer to hit the trails hiking, Asa Wright has plenty to keep any individual happy. However, I defy you to not enjoy the close up views of the feeder visitors from the marvelous comfort of the veranda with all of its amenities. Take for example, an extreme close-up view of a Crested Oropendola eye! That's one amazing shade of blue.

male Bananaquit singing , digiscoped @ Asa Wright NC, Trinidad

Palm Tanagers and Bananaquits were absolutely ubiquitous and their bubbly songs added to the ambiance of this spot. Even away from the feeders, the birds around the grounds have become habituated to the presence of people, making Asa Wright a spectacular spot to familiarize yourself with these new & different species.

Blue-Gray Tanager digiscoped from Asa Wright veranda

The snags and perches around the veranda are a digiscoper's delight as well. Having opportunities to view and photograph many of these birds at eye level in the open is always a bonus. Along the trails even very common species like the Blue-gray Tanager above, are often hidden in the canopy and the field views are rarelyas good as those gotten from the comfort of the veranda.

Copper-rumped Hummingbird, digiscoped @ Asa Wright veranda

As you'd expect, the staff maintains Hummingbird feeders as well and there is always a nice assortment of hummingbird species visiting. The Copper-rumped Hummingbird above was just one of the interesting species that was seen near constantly during our stay. Other common feeder visitors included the stunning White-necked Jacobin & White-chested Emerald among others.

Channel-billed Toucans tee up in tree tops down slope from the Asa Wright veranda

One afternoon just before the daily 4 pm coffee, tea, and pastry feast on the veranda, a brief shower swept past. Typical of green season, tropical birding the short cloud burst came and went and dropping both humidity and temperatures considerably. In addition, bird activity was renewed, and numerous Channel-billed Toucans soon popped up and began bathing in the tree tops and calling back and forth. I watched the antics of these beautiful birds as I popped another pastry into my mouth and thought, "Hmmm.... only 2 more hours to rum punch!" ;p

Midsummer Birding

Midsummer months may offer less species diversity than the active migration months, but it is typically the time when you can make some of the most wondrous discoveries in your own backyards! Be it a new vocalization, an interesting breeding behavior, or even discovery of a brood of young Carolina Wrens in a milk crate full of sand toys. Sorry kids, no using these toys for a few weeks! ;)

Carolina Wren nest in milk crate, Leica V-Lux camera June, 2008

Of course, after a while the same individuals and lesser numbers of birds can seem a bit mundane I suppose, but fortunately many of us travel to other's backyards in the warmer summer months. This was the case for me recently when I skipped across to Utah for the American Birding Association's annual Convention held at the Snowbird Ski Resort. Even while working a booth in the vendor area, I was able to view a feeders flush with Cassin's Finches and Pine Siskins, with Cordilleran Flycatchers "Pi-peet!"ing right out the door.

Warbling Vireo on nest, digiscoped UT 6/08 Leica APO Televid & C-Lux 2 camera

Even wide spread species like Warbling Vireos are not a bird that nests in the sub-tropical regions of Florida so these even offered a different feel from my backyard. However, careful observations also showed these birds sang and looked a lot different than Warbling Vireos from the NE United States. This western subspecies had a more succinct song and was darker marked overall.

American Robin, female digiscoped at Snowbird, UT 6/08

I even miss the "in your face" nesting antics of the American Robin in my deep south digs, so this too was a different experience I can't see at home. Of course, it was interesting to note there were no worms this trip. A mouth full-o-wasps (or similar) will have to suffice.

Barn Swallow youngster digiscoped in nest Utah, June 2008

Barn Swallows are ubiquitous but who can resist an overflowing nest of semi-fuzzy nestlings? All of the nests here along the shore of the Great Salt Lake were filled to capacity probably thanks to a never ending source of food in the form of Brine Flies (although in fairness I didn't see what they were feeding on)!

Green-tailed Towhee digiscoped with Leica APO Televid spotting scope & C-Lux 2 camera

Of course not all of the species up here were widespread, Dusky Flycatchers bred just up the road, MacGillviray's Warblers sang from nearly every bush (it seemed) at Snowbird, and I was thrilled to catch up with the old friend above I haven't seen in years. I was real fortunate to observe a unique display as I watched him. In the image above and even more so in the video clip below you can see this wonderful territorial wing display. I'd always wondered why an otherwise drab ground-dweller would want to have brilliant yellow-green, iridescent upperwings. Now I know! What better way to send the message, "This is my territory get out now!" than a brilliant flash of color?!?...

The video clip and still image above were taken through the Leica APO Televid spotting scope with the same small digital point & shoot camera, the Leica C-Lux 2! Most modern point & shoots offer unlimited video capabilities that are ideal for capturing rare moments like these.

Key Largo birding

During a break in the action in a Miami area business trip. My boss and I went in search of one of his nemesis birds, the Mangrove Cuckoo. Knowing the extensive hardwood hammocks of upper Key Largo has been one of the most consistently productive areas for these birds of late, we drove south after completion of our meetings. As soon as we reached the card sound road, Magnificent Frigatebirds like the male pictured below were common place and overhead near constantly.

Magnificent Frigatebir, male, Port Charlotte, FL 2005

Gray Kingbirds were also numerous flitting from wire to mangrove branch and back along our entire route. Both of these birds were very abundant and we saw many, but I didn't actually stop and take pictures of either on this quick trip (I've cheated here a bit and recycled some shots taken over the years on the image above and below).

Gray Kingbird, Englewood, FL 2005

In all, we spent ~2 hours searching some of these areas on the evening of June 17th. We heard and saw numerous Black-whiskered Vireos and White-crowned Pigeons throughout the area but the notoriously difficult Mangrove Cuckoo eluded us in the sweltering late afternoon heat and humidity. Most agree that Mangrove Cuckoos are definitely easier to find in the cool morning hours though, so we resigned ourselves to giving it one more shot the following morning before our time came to an end and my boss had to fly north again.

White-crowned Pigeon digiscoped Key Largo 6/18/08

We'd barely begun at 7 AM the following morning, when we saw our first cuckoo almost immediately. The bird sailed overhead and landed at roadside, so we quickly pulled over to view the bird and realized this was a Yellow-billed Cuckoo. We would see a total of 4 Yellow-billed Cuckoos, down there with nary a Mangrove Cuckoo to show for our efforts. However, I was hoping that would soon change.

My friend Larry Manfredi and his young son, pulled up just then to help search some other areas. Larry is a professional tour guide in south Florida and extremely knowledgeable of local birds, so I wasn't about to say "No" when he offered to meet us and lend a hand! Larry met us at roadside a bit after 7:30 AM, and suggested we try another spot nearby that he likes. So we followed him a mile or so up Route 1 and pulled off again. As soon as we got out of our cars Larry asked, "Was that it?" I hadn't heard.

Mangrove Cuckoo digiscoped, Leica APO Televid spotting scope 6/18

Then as we sat along route 1, it called again a low croaking just up the road. We managed at long last to side track along the highway listening for the croak in between passing trucks and traffic, and spotted the bird 3/4 the way up in a taller tree! I snapped pictures and some video frames with my little point & shoot camera through the scope, before the bird finally retreated back into the thick hammock! It was 8:30 AM and I had to get my boss back to the Miami airport. So we thanked Larry and his son for his suggestion and for helping turn our luck around and parted ways.

Mangrove Cuckoo calls at roadside, Key Largo 6/18/2008

In the "videoscoped" clip above (shot through a Leica spotting scope) you can hear the passing traffic drown out the croaking calls of our cooperative quarry!

We made one more stop en route to view the endemic "Golden" Yellow Warblers which breed in mangroves along Card Sound Road, and I spotted both Snail Kites and Swallow-tailed Kites between Miami and home. It was a great trip and a rewarding 3.5 hours of birding in a tropical paradise. I wish it could have been more, who knows what else we might have seen!

South Florida birding with Larry Manfredi:

http://southfloridabirding.com/

Feather Fest

White-tailed Kite, adult, digiscoped Galveston Island, April 2008

Galveston Island is a fabulous birding locale, and the bird festival "Galveston FeatherFest" is always a fun event. This year (like others in the past) the event was held on the first weekend in April. Since Galveston, Texas is on the Gulf of Mexico the birds here are not tremendously different from those I see in my home along Florida's gulf coast.

immature white morph Reddish Egret, digiscoped w/ Leica APO spotting scope

None-the-less, there are subtle regional differences and I always get wonderful photo opportunities. For example, the Texas gulf coast seems to host a greater percentage of the white form of the Reddish Egret like the immature seen above then I see near my home. I always enjoy my time here as a result. While the area is a stone throw from world famous migrant traps like High Island, I find myself oddly content to just bird the island and enjoy it's spoils when here.

This is the time of year when migration is just beginning to crank up, so I always see many new migrant species for the year including my first returning warblers. For the fourth year in a row, I once again saw my 1st returning Chimney Swifts of the year from the rooftop cocktail reception held annually at this event!

Laughing Gulls call and display at East Beach in Galveston, TX

More over though, the birding is fun because spring is fully in the air and evident everywhere you go. Familiar local species are exciting to observe because they are all courting and displaying. Laughing Gulls in high color can be seen everywhere parading in tandem and throwing their heads up giving their characteristic calls. Willets sing long songs from marsh-side posts & bushes or while perform flight displays. Northern Harriers loop pendulously over the marsh as well performing spectacular aerobatics.

Reddish Egret adultbristles in a showy diaplay of agression toward other wading birds

Many of the wading birds are also in their finest feather of the year. With high breeding plumes and bright facial skin and legs. The Reddish Egret above was exceptionally aggressive toward other wading birds as it preened its plumage to perfection.

Red-winged Blackbird, male digiscoped w/ Leica APO Televid scope & C-Lux 2 camera

Red epulets gleaming, male blackbirds "Conk-er-reeeee!" loudly and chase females doggedly when they fly up from the marsh, while Clapper Rails tussle for superiority at the edges of the brackish channels.

male Red-winged Blackbird throws its wings out in a flashy display while calling!

Being an island, there is a lot of areas for shorebirds and wading birds that are famed, but that is not all that Galveston has to offer. Bushes throughout the island typically hold at least one Scissor-tailed Flycatcher as they return from points south. The few hammocks of trees are fabulous migrant traps for warblers, and the short grass fields host migrant American Golden Plovers and Long-billed Curlews. Historically, these same fields played host to many migrant Eskimo Curlews. Now believed to be extinct, Galveston Island is one of the last known areas where these birds were seen in the wild! It's great fun to stand at the edge of these same fields and imagine a large flock of these birds swinging in off the gulf and noisily announcing their triumphant return to the US!

Seaside Sparrow sings from marsh grasses near East Beach, Galveston Island, TX.

I and the Volcano

Recently, I promised more stories of adventures gone by, and with the rigorous migration season behind me I have both time and subject matter to blog about. Here is one of my favorite recent adventures... flashback to March in Guatemala.

As with any great bird trip we started at o'dark-thirty and made our way toward the hotel dining area for coffee. The unusually silent streets of Panajachel (a colorful lake side community which is usually bustling) were interrupted only by the distant song of a whip-poor-will and the quiet "mews" Clay-colored Robins roosting nearby. After coffee and breakfast we packed lunch and extra drinks into our purposely light day packs and loaded into the van for our first leg of the journey, a short drive to the boat launch.

Volcan Toliman looms in the distance

It was a bit brighter here as we found our way to our launch. A Tropical Mockingbird greeted the morning light, with the typical host of Great-tailed Grackles. As we shuttled across Lago Atitlan for an anxious half hour or so, Barn Swallows and Laughing Gulls dipped over the water but there was little more in the way of birds over the lake. The steep sided cones of Volcan San Pedro and Toliman loomed ominously in the morning mist as a reminder of the day's task. Today we would tackle the steep sided Volcan San Pedro and climb some 3500' vertical in hopes of seeing one of the strangest, yet coolest birds in all of Guatemala, the elusive Horned Guan!

early morning landing in San Pedro La Laguna

Upon landing in San Pedro La Laguna, we awaited our next vehicle. A truck that would carry us up the steep slopes of town and deliver us safely to the trail head at the reserve. It promised to be a beautiful day with hardly a cloud in the sky, but from all I'd spoken to who had been here before me, I knew I was in for a workout! Living at ~8 feet above sea level, with an extra 20 pounds that I refer to as my "winter weight", I was probably not ideally prepared for the task ahead. However, I knew I'd make it even if carried by adrenaline alone. To the delight of my fellow birders I don't go any where without my trusty spotting scope!

At the trail head there were birds everywhere! The hillside was absolutely thick with bird activity. The bulk of these were neotropical migrants that spend half their lives (winter) in the tropics and then migrate north to breed in the United States and Canada. Western Tanagers were thick as were Black-throated Green Warblers, but as the flocks passed we added other species as well. A handful of Flame-colored Tanagers mixed with Westerns, and a large rusty sparrow popped up briefly. Our incredible guide Hugo, informed me the one was aptly named "Rusty Sparrow"... go figure, some birds are named well! ;p

Lesser Roadrunner, digiscoped Volcan San Pedro, 3/7/08

There were loads of birds along the way but I didn't stop to photograph many of these. Doing so would have cost me my time to study these birds and slowed the group as a whole. So we continued our slow crawl uphill adding new birds as we did. In the lower, more open areas I spotted a cooperative Prevost's Ground-Sparrow at trail side, and we heard and finally saw 2 Lesser Roadrunners. Flowering hillside shrubs attracted White-eared and Ruby-throated Humingbirds. Mountain Trogons called from nearby brush, and Black-headed Siskins perched prominently in a low treetop to our left. A cooperative perched Blue-throated Motmot offered a welcomed break from our march so I could suck up some of the thin mountain air. (Coming from Florida I prefer my air like my beer, with a bit more body than this light mountain stuff!)

Once again we pushed on, and the crowd began to separate once again. I was spending more time staring at my feet than up hill, but I did manage to glance up at just the right time on one occasion. I think I sensed a bird more than seeing it (as odd as that sounds) but I brought my head up to find myself eye to eye with a stunning stocky songbird. Not 6 feet away we stared at each other as I gave him the once over: stocky and short-tailed, green-backed... it reminded me of a Pepper-shrike... "Huff, Puff" I knew this bird I'd seen it countless times thumbing through the guide... think "Huff, Puff". As I wracked my brain I called up to Jim to get back down here. The bird's white iris gleamed, split by black eyeline below and bright yellow, supercilliary stripe above... what was this bird? I stared at its plain white undersides accentuated by a chestnut breast band that extended down its sides... neurons suddenly flickered, smoke was in the air... "Huff, Puff... of course, Chestnut-sides...This was a Chestnut-sided Shrike-Vireo, and a stunning male at that! All got to see this bird except the two most energetic individuals leading the charge uphill. I wasn't slow, I just didn't want to miss anything that's all (or so I told myself).

Lesser Roadrunner, digiscoped with Leica APO Televid 62 scope & C-Lux 2 camera

I kept an eye on swifts streaming overhead in hopes of adding a Chestnut-collared Swift but every group that passed gave me a familiar chattering laugh, letting me know they were old friends; White-throated Swifts that breed along the mountainous cliffs throughout much of the western US come summer. A stunning hummingbird, the Sparkling-tailed Woodstar fed in a flowered clearing, and a Chestnut-capped Brush-Finch was seen. The warbler list took on a more resident/tropical flair with the additions of Golden-browed and Crescent-chested Warblers as we reached our first "rest stop".

"About halfway there now", Hugo told us. I removed my back pack, already drenched with perspiration and decided to both lighten my load and replenish some of that lost winter weight by sucking down some juice and water! "Huff, Puff, Huff..." My back chilled dramatically as moisture began to evaporate from my soaked back.

An Emerald Toucanet rocketed by from overhead and disappeared into the treetops below, then a close Whip-poor-will sang. It served as the all call and we loaded up again to continue our ascent! Gray Silky Flycatchers were abundant and had been passing in groups of 4 & 5 almost continuously as we climbed. Soon after beginning the second half of our ascent, Hugo's radio crackled. The reserve guides had located Guans about 1,000 feet above us! We all took off as fast as we could. Those with better conditioning quickly pulled away from the pack though. I stayed in the middle of the pack far behind the leaders.... Not that I couldn't keep up mind you... uhhh... I just wanted to make sure those in the rear were doing alright!....Yeah that's it! ;p

I could no longer see the lead three and my incessant puffing had grown to a dull roar, my heart rate sped, and I found I had to regularly stop and bend over to catch my breath. Reminiscent of the "Tortoise and the Hare", Jim would pass me each time I stopped and and vice versa. Although, in reality we would likely rename this tale "The Two Tortoises" given our pace.

At long last, I could see the leaders stopped ahead. Tim called back, '..no need to hurry...' They'd flown up slope even before these speed demons arrived. Slightly disappointed and decidedly ragged from the rapid ascent over the past 1,000 feet, we trudged slowly upward. Eventually, reaching the top of the bird's preferred habitat. Now it was a simple matter of working up and down the trail in this area. I hated the thought of giving up altitude, but the thought of not seeing this spectacular bird was a stronger drive than mere limitations of flesh and man (despite what my lungs, heart, and legs had to say about it)!

first glimpse of Guan

At least, the pace was more leisurely now so I could soak up the birds here as I scoured the dark tree tops in search of this enormous bird. There was one particular tree here in full bloom that was absolutely chock full of birds, easily hundreds of them. We counted as many as a dozen Gray-silkies on one little snag in the expansive crown of this tree, along with countless warbler, bushtits, hummingbirds, etc. We found a gap where we could look down on the tree top from above with the scope and add numerous birds to our growing day list. An amazing spectacle! (I'm sure someone can remind me of the name of the tree which now escapes me, a tall tree with broad canopy, with VERY distinctive flowers that resemble bright yellow & red chicken's feet!)

Another pleasant distraction was seeing the tiny Wine-throated Hummingbird, once conspecific with Bumblebee Hummingbird, "Howell & Webb" list the length at a mere 2.7 inches making it the tiniest hummingbird in the Americas and perhaps the world! (Bumblebee listed@ 2.8") Despite being tired, these wonderful avian distractions had all but taken the sting out of missing the Guan (and my legs for that matter), when a whistled note from below came up. I asked the reserve guide, "is that our sign?" and he nodded. "Eagle-eyed Jim" had found the Horned Guans, and this time they were close by and downhill to boot! At first I couldn't spot them but when one finally moved it couldn't be missed. A huge dark shape in the shadows with a white band through the tail, definitely our bird but not the view one hopes for.

Horned Guan digiscoped on Volcan San Pedro, Guatemala 3/7/08

As the birds moved slowly through the canopy one finally gave the view we all hoped for. It was a bit distant but not far above eye level as the tree was rooted below our elevation here. Positively prehistoric, the bird posed for brief moments in this hole so all could see the sky blue iris set on the black feathered face, accentuating the bird's vacuous stare! The ivory-bill was also gleamed compared to the glossy black head and neck as I snapped my first few images. We were absolutely thrilled at the views we had of this little "guan-a-bee" with its lack luster horn, but before long the birds continued out of sight down slope and around the steep edge of the cone. Smiles couldn't have been bigger on the faces that surrounded me now. It was near 2:00 though and we still had to climb back down, meet our truck, and catch the launch. We happily and wearily turned our toes toward the lake shore and began downhill perfectly content.

Horned Guan digiscoped through Leica APO Televid 65 scope with C-Lux 2 camera

As I said we were perfectly content and really didn't need the much closer views of the bird above when it crash landed right over our heads. But hey... you can't look a gift horn in the mouth... or something like that. Views of this bird, who I affectionately dubbed "Don Guan" was just the icing on the cake, an absolutely astounding end to a spectacular birding day a in a VERY bird rich location. Should you ever get the chance to bird here, by all means do. Of course, if you have time for a bit of cardiovascular training in advance I'd also recommend this (I did not heed this advice). This is perhaps the most physically demanding (and as such one of the most rewarding) bird hikes I've taken to date! For those who have seen Bristle-thighed Curlew in Nome, this makes Coffee Dome seem like a walk in the park! ;)