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Binoculars: How Much?

These questions are much tougher to answer, because the word quality has a subjective component -- what is quality to you may not be quality to me. Then, too, we may disagree on how much quality is needed for bird watching, not to mention what constitutes a lot of money.

There are those who dismiss this entire issue by suggesting that only the finest, most expensive optics will do for birding, and that anyone who uses less must also be, shall we say, less than serious about bird watching.

This is not true. I know many birders, including several ornithologists, who carry binoculars that cost a fraction of what I use, and their ability in the field easily surpasses mine. I carry expensive binoculars simply because I love good optics and what they can do, but I learned long ago never to judge other bird watchers by their optics. After all, most of us began our bird watching with far less than the best optics, and many of us started birding with no optics at all. Today's birder is lucky that there are models of usable quality in nearly every price range.

What, then, is quality in binoculars? To fully answer this you need to consider two issues -- optics and construction. These are the two components of quality, and together they determine the price you pay for any particular model.

Quality optics can be defined as lenses and prisms that deliver images high in resolution, sharpness, contrast, and brightness across most, or virtually all, of the field of view. The optical package in any pair of binoculars reflects not only the quality and type of glass used for the lenses and prisms, but also the degree to which they are ground, polished, and aligned. This is the most labor intensive part of binoculars, hence the biggest part of the price tag.

Prestige brands deliver the most consistent optical quality, since they offer only a single quality line of instruments. Most manufacturers, however, offer two or more "grades" of binoculars, so name alone will not assure top quality. Be prepared then to test optical quality yourself.

You don't need a degree in optics to do a quick check here, as long as you follow a few guidelines. First, any binoculars seem good until you compare them with something better, so be sure to evaluate optical quality on the basis of comparisons. How does the model in question stack up against the best? Second, be sure to mount each model on a rest or all you may be testing is your own steadiness. Third, carefully adjust each model for your eyes before passing judgment. Last, challenge the optics by concentrating on something with fine detail near the limit of resolution -- barely readable print on a distant sign works well.

Quality optics will show a high degree of contrast between the lettering and its background, and will show letters with sharper edges (provided the sign has sharp print), with little or no halo of color. Quality optics will also maintain this performance nearer to the edge of the field than will cheaper optics. The difference between poor quality and good quality will be obvious, but the difference between good and best quality is much less discernible. And as you might expect, with premium-grade instruments, optical quality is often too close to call.

The other ingredient in the quality recipe is construction. Quality construction can be defined as assembly and components that will survive long-term use under worst-case field conditions. Quality construction may not be as obvious as quality optics, since many working parts in a pair of binoculars are internal and not visible for inspection. For this reason, construction, especially internal, is often compromised to reduce costs.

One component of internal construction, however, can be checked -- alignment. This simply means that optical assemblies in both barrels are lined up to look precisely in the same direction. Properly aligned optics make viewing a totally comfortable and fatigue-free experience. On the other hand, even a little error in alignment will degrade the image and produce eye strain. If you feel any discomfort at all, check the alignment as follows.

First focus on a distant object. Keep the binoculars centered on the object, but cover one barrel with your hand for several long seconds (keep both eyes open), then remove it. If the alignment is correct, the image will still be perfectly in focus. If the alignment is off, however, it will take a moment or two for the image to regain focus. Reject such a binocular immediately.

Quality construction also reveals itself in some external features. For example, the focus mechanism should be smooth and precise throughout its travel, with little or no slop. All adjustments (right eyepiece and interpupillary distance) should stay set, and not wander on their own. Lastly, at least some parts in a quality instrument are made of metal, although plastic (polymer) can be found these days on almost all binoculars, regardless of price.

How much quality you will need for a pair of birding binoculars depends on your experience, your type and style of bird watching, and your desires. Any binoculars will allow you to identify birds, but watching birds from the kitchen window is not the same as an expedition to the rain forests of Costa Rica. There are times when you can buy cheap, but there are times when it is cheaper to buy more. Match quality with needs, and keep your expectations in line with what you are willing to pay.

Binoculars under $100 can certainly be used for birding, but optics, and especially construction, at this level are minimal -- expectations here should be the same. Be prepared to replace such binoculars on a regular basis and on short notice, since they are not designed for hard, extended use. Be warned that these are essentially disposable optics since it may not be cost effective to repair them. Optics of this quality are best reserved for observing from a kitchen window or a vehicle, and for the occasional trip in fair weather.

Binoculars come in two basic designs: Porro prism and roof prism. Here is how to tell roof prism and Porro prism binoculars apart. Stand the optics on a flat surface on the objective lenses. Porro prisms, with their offset eyepieces, are in an M-shape. Roof prisms, with their straight-tube design, form an H-shape. The best optics at this price are center focus, Porro prism models (avoid no-focus models), and the best construction is the single-center hinge design, which is more durable than the double-folding hinge design. Inspect all models closely and be prepared to open a number of boxes, as quality control at this price varies widely from one box to the next.

If you go birding more often, especially in the field, Porro prism binoculars in the $150-200 range cost only a little more, but often show a real improvement in optics. These make a much better starter binocular, or a backup if and when you upgrade to better quality.

The most optics/construction for your optics dollar, at least in the short run, is in the $200-350 range. In fact, the upper end of this range approaches the point of diminishing returns in optics value -- to gain a small increase in optical performance beyond this point, you typically will have to pay two to three times the price. Once again, Porro prisms offer the best optics in this range, but you will find more waterproof models in the roof prism design. Regardless of which type you choose, these binoculars have sufficient quality to provide years of use with reasonable care. It is probably safe to say that a majority of birders use binoculars of this price and quality.

Beyond $350 there are only a few choices until you get into premium grade glasses at the $700-plus category. Keep in mind that roof prisms between $350-700 will probably not offer a significant improvement over roof prisms in the $300 range unless they are phase-corrected. If optics is your primary concern, be sure to check for this important feature.

Top quality phase-corrected roof prisms and premium-grade Porro prisms (some with specially coated glass) begin at around $700 and climb rapidly from there. These are highly recommended for birders who use their optics hard and want the best long-term value, or for those who (like me) are simply addicted to fine optics and are willing to skip lunch for two years (or more) to own the best. Despite their high initial cost, these optics are the best long-term value since they are fully capable of providing a lifetime of peak performance and hard use. The only time you will regret purchase of such binoculars is if you lose them.

In the final analysis, any binoculars, regardless of price and quality, are worthy instruments if they encourage you to go birding. But if you are still in doubt about what to spend on binoculars, my advice is to borrow some optics, or better yet, join the local bird club and see what other birders use. Bird watchers, like some birds, are a gregarious lot and will gladly share their views on optics. Besides, joining up will be good for you and the birds.